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We’re all flabbergasted.
“The UK government has renewed its attempt to reopen the chapter of the Brexit divorce treaty protecting specialty food and drink, such as Parma ham, roquefort cheese and champagne, in a move that left the EU chief negotiator, Michel Barnier, “a little bit flabbergasted”.
The British proposal on protected status for food and drink was included in a draft free-trade agreement handed to Barnier by his opposite number, David Frost, last week, according to two EU sources.
But EU officials have ruled out diluting the divorce deal provisions that protect more than 3,000 high-end food and drink products from copycats. “It’s just not going to happen,” said one official.
The withdrawal agreement signed between Boris Johnson and EU leaders last October preserves the status of food and drink protected under the EU’s geographical indications (GI) policy. A top priority for EU trade negotiators, these rules bar English or Spanish vintners from calling their sparkling wine champagne, for example, while only crumbly cheese from Greece can be labelled feta. Under the withdrawal treaty, the protection applies “unless and until” a new deal can be negotiated.
According to EU sources, the UK is attempting to water down protection for EU geographical indications, while keeping the special status for British produce, such as Scotch whisky, Melton Mowbray pork pies and Cornish pasties.
The return of the proposal, floated in the early stages of trade talks last spring, caused astonishment. “The asymmetry was met with open mouths. Why would you even suggest that in a serious negotiation?” said the EU source. Barnier was “a little bit flabbergasted”, the person added.
 

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